The jewel in Ghana's crown is without a doubt
the marvellous beaches - long deserted stretches of immaculately fine sand
with, probably, a viciously deceptive surf and treacherous currents.
At Busua Richard and I swim out (separately)
to an island which lies about 5km off the beach where we are camping (or at
least that's how it felt). Richard went first so I knew to take sandals when
I tried, and as I result I could walk afterwards, whereas he could only
hobble on the remains of the many sea urchins that he had cruelly trampled
A short walk away are two of the slave forts
that lend the coast a historical relevance - to the East are the ruins of a
Dutch fort which you can visit if you first pay the local chief a courtesy
visit; to the West is fort Metal Cross which is owned by one Mr. Robert from
Surrey. It seems he visited it a few years ago and thought that it would
make a perfect hideaway - and has since done a great job of restoring the
fort. He is also very generous with pizza.
As you approach the old capital, Cape Coast,
Elmina Castle is well worth a visit, as is the town itself; Cape Coast has
it's own impressive castle, but far more fun are the two forts in town - one
a simple lookout tower - the other is a Martello-type tower complete with
its own lively community of squatters.
On the way to Accra we experience a bit of a
drama when the rear left wheel fell off. This sounds dramatic, but actually
caused hardly any damage except to the wheel which is a write-off. This is
irritating as it cannot easily be replaced here, but things could have been
worse if Roxana hadn't kept cool when it happened, and hit the brakes. This
was the wheel that I had changed in Busua, and I must have failed to tighten
the nuts, although I remember trying to judge the torque as I was putting
the nuts on - maybe after my marathon swim I was feeling particularly
Eventually we reach Accra, where we spend a
couple of nights in town while we leave the Camel in the inevitable Land
Rover garage for a new brake disc, and repairs to a broken brake pipe. The
pipe wasn't in stock, but in the local car part market a man made on up for
me in ten minutes for the princely sum of about 80p. Just before they are
finished the realise that the front Left bearing needs replacement, which
delays us another day.
Meanwhile we work on our tans at the Coco
Beach Resort Hotel where for about £2 a night we get to use a brilliant pool
and camp in the children's playground. How appropriate.